As part of our recurring Characteristics feature, we spoke with Italian brand Asciari. The family business consisting of brother, sister and mother built their business to appreciate the roots of their native region of Milano. Their aesthetic centres around merging values of the past with avant-garde crafts. The word Asciari stems from the archaic Sicilian expression "to search, to gather, to create a meaning" which is essential to the identity of the brand. Therefore, we found it interesting to ask them to pick out a piece from their latest body of work, something that they feel represents them as creators and tell us the story behind it.
They chose a jacket named Margi because it exemplifies the Asciari silhouette perfectly due to the geometric and wide shape and the omittance of superfluous constructions. The tailored coat is cut in one straight line, features no lining and is finished with a blue cotton/ramie seam piping. Interestingly, the jacket has no armhole because Asciari constructed the top part of the sleeve as part of the body and then added an extended tubular part to finish the three-quarter length sleeve. This adds to the minimal and organic feel of the brand and enhances the size flexibility. Something that is further underlined by the mandarin-like collar and the attachment of unseamed patched pockets to the front of the jacket.
The Margi jacket was created to exude an avant-garde minimalism and to convey an elegant and sophisticated aesthetic. The aim is to recall ideas of rigour and simplicity but also represent a relaxed and non-conformist approach to life. Essentially, Asciari feels the need to reconnect with roots of craftsmanship and respect to fully understand the values of the present. They feel it is of great importance to create styles that can withstand the test of time and that stays clear of trends to counter the typical approach seen in the industry these days.
Therefore, Asciari executes their garments exclusively in Italy to ensure the attention to details is reflected both internally and externally. The jacket is made out of the natural materials wool and camel hair. The wool originates from a highly praised tradition of south Tyrol and is chosen because of the close-knit fibres that naturally protects from cold and rain. On the other hand, the camel hair has been sourced from a historic Yorkshire mill because of its insulating properties and luxurious feel to the skin. The textural softness of the fabrics contrasts the austere and voluminous lines of the jacket and creates a dynamic which is essentially what Asciari is about.
By taking either fabric or classic tailoring out of the normal state a newly found expression comes to life. The respect for crafts and time, the playfulness of the construction and the boldness of taking fabrics into a new aesthetic is very interesting to witness. Therefore, Asciari's approach and interpretation of slow Less Magazine can back. One that urges consumers to appreciate the intricacies of the craft and the importance of a detail oriented mindset.