Designer Linda Kokkonen
Text Paula Koski
What do you get when mixing Victorian era, nature, rituals and witches? A high fashion collection, for example, as the four are the base of Aalto University graduate, Linda Kokkonen's womenswear line.
Kokkonen tells Less Magazine that she was especially inspired by motorcycle garments, rough surfaces, pleats, and recycled materials, combined with witchcraft.
The black leather used in the collection is recycled, as well as the jersey and the lace. The red leather I bought from a Finnish company that uses reindeer skin. I didn't want to buy basic leather from God knows where; so, this is one of the most ethical leathers one can get.
Surely, the collection was not a walk in the park. During the busy months of making, Kokkonen worked endlessly colouring silk, creating tops from heavy yarns, ordering screens for prints, and learning devoré, also known as burnout, a technique used to print onto the pieces.
It was rough and I worked like crazy. The vision I had in my mind, at the start, changed drastically. First, I went towards more costume; but, later, transformed the collection into more fashion. One does not re-invent everything, say, I used the base pattern of the motorcycle suit and reshaped it into my own version, Kokkonen tells.
The collection is out, hyped for example by Vogue Talents and photographed by Finnish Emma Sarpaniemi, Diana Luganski, Maria Korkeila and Juha Arvid Helminen. Recently, Kokkonen finshed third at the Designer's Nest competetion, a platform for Nordic Design graduates.
Spanish filmmaker, Laura Martinova and photographer Iris Valles Saez are the latest creatives to take on the collection. For Martinova's short film and Valles Saez' photoshoot, Kokkonen traveled to Barcelona.
First we filmed at a secluded beach and, then, continued to the ruins of an old castle. During the shoot, we heard the castle was haunted. Luckily, we had finished filming before it got really dark. The whole team was afraid.
The result of a scarier-than-average shoot is a beautifully executed, enchanting video and editorial that demonstrate the inspiration and the vibe of the collection.
Currently, Kokkonen is researching plant-based colours as part of her master's studies at Aalto University.
Sustainability in fashion can be made possible, and it is the reason I chose this career. I want to be part of the change, she says.
Director Laura Martinova Photographer Iris Valles Fashion
Designer Linda Kokkonen Producers Laura Bestle & Dave Cunningham
DOP Maite Astiz Assistant DOP Carles Fernanzes Gali & Adriana Cuenca
Makeup Núria Pérez Olivas Hair Jose H. Penaloza
Models: Tania Fer, Raissa Leme & Eszter Eross
Thanks to Servivevision, Blow Models and Francina Models